If you’re traveling to the 2005 World Championships, print this article out. If you’re traveling with a chaperone, show it to them. If you’re traveling alone, stick a copy in your suitcase in case emergencies crop up. (While you’re at it, print out a copy of Wizards’ info.) I am not a Lonely Planet, nor am I a Rough Guide, but I’ll tell you the basic information and a few local pointers to make your Worlds experience that much better.
DISCLAIMER: None of the places or companies I mentioned in this article compensated me to mention them in this article. (I wish.) I do not endorse any of the organizations or businesses below, I just point them out for the sake of listing possibilities. Also, please do not email me asking me to make reservations for you. I am not a travel agent. If you have a question, use the forums.
There are a few things that you absolutely must have to make your trip to Japan a practical and useful one. One of these is a travel guide. You need maps to find anything. Happily, Yokohama’s subway map does have everything in English, and the Pro Tour venue is easy to get to. Your lodgings, on the other hand, pose an issue. Consider toting along a language phrase book, because Japanese people don’t have very good command of English as often as in Europe or other parts of the world.
Getting There
From Narita, you have a multitude of options. The N’Express has an express train that heads to Yokohama Station for around 4000 yen. (That’s about 37 USD, and that’s not cheap.) There is a highway bus that will get you there for half the price. If you’re not pressed for time, consider the highway bus. Do not, repeat, do not even think about taking a taxi to Yokohama Station. The price your brain gets charged for even thinking about taking the taxi is enough to break the bank at Monte Carlo.
The train commute from Tokyo to Yokohama is not very cheap, and it takes 30 minutes (unless you take the local train instead of the express train), so consider setting up your base of operations in Yokohama proper.
Where To Stay
Your first thought might be along the lines that you want to stay in a hotel. Your first thought would be right. Hotels are always a safe bet. Most Yokohama hotels will be in the neighborhood of 7000 yen and up. However, there are a few other options that you may want to consider.
One option to consider is the internet cafe. There are a few internet cafes in Yokohama. Most are located near the train stations, and they’re open twenty-four hours. Around two to three hundred yen an hour gets you a cubicle with sofa or recliner, TV, and computer. My personal preference is to lie on the padded floor of some cubicles and nap. They’re pretty comfy, believe it or not. The vast majority of these places also have a shower, so you can be clean and refreshed. You get no towels or pillows, though, so bring a blindfold if you’re fussy about light when sleeping. You also get free coffee, tea, and soda the whole time you’re there. There’s also some sort of service there called “the internet” that I keep hearing about.
The downside of this option is that you have to haul your luggage around with you. Five days of schlepping luggage is not my idea of fun.
Another option is the capsule hotel. Capsule hotels are the stay of last resort. There are no reservations at the capsule hotel. The capsule hotel gives you a bed and about three and a half feet of headroom. You can’t sit up in these things. The capsules are layered on top of each other, and you’ll have to climb your way into your plastic womb. Sound less than thrilling? You can watch TV. (Ten minutes are yours for only 100 yen. Or you can get up, put on your yukata, the light robe that comes with your room, and go sit in the TV lounge with older Japanese men with hangovers.) There are public showers. Most capsule hotels cost in the neighborhood of 3000 yen a night, and they’ll usually hold your luggage for you.
(For one famous author’s interpretation of these hotels, try William Gibson’s Neuromancer. Even if you’re not interested, give Gibson a read anyway.)
Whether you stay at a real hotel or a capsule hotel, please don’t wear the yukata you get on the street or at the tournament. It’s pretty crass. Also, do not be surprised if someone shows you how to tie your yukata the correct way. (You can’t keep the yukata. Sorry.)
If you are going with a significant other, you could theoretically stay at a love hotel. The rates are expensive for all night, but one night’s stay is probably worth it, for the decor alone. Do not attempt this method of accommodations alone, however.
Secret tech tip number two: The morning of the day before you fly out, go to a convenience store that offers Takkyubin (Yamato Shipping) services. Look for the sign with the black cat on yellow outside the convenience store. For a fairly cheap fee (20 bucks a suitcase), they’ll take it to Narita within 12 to 18 hours. That way, you can travel unencumbered on the last two days. Consider it if you don’t have a regular hotel room.
What to Eat
If you don’t have any special dietary restrictions, Japan is a great culinary experience. There’s a lot more than sushi. Yokohama’s particularly famous among the Japanese for its Chinese food, though it’s not quite as authentic as some of the places I’ve been to in New York or Philly. (These are the places where you’d have to ask for an English menu in the U.S.) I’m a big fan of Italian restaurants here, though the interpretation of what’s “Italian” is quite liberal. Also recommended are yakiniku restaurants, Korean barbecue joints. You’ll be paying around 2000 yen a person, usually, but the marinated beef, seafood, and vegetables are hearty and cooked just the way you want them to be. That’s because there’s a grill in the middle of the table and you cook them yourself. [Korean BBQ is the bees knees. Good Tonkatsu places (breaded porkchops and citrus cabbage) are also fantastic. Pub food with somebody who has a clue what to order can also be surprisingly good. -Knut]
Don’t go to McDonald’s. Nothing good can happen when you eat at a McDonald’s.
If you’re a vegetarian or vegan, be cautious. Japan doesn’t have a lot of experience dealing with people of your persuasion. Meat finds its way on top of things that you’d never think of. In particular, dried fish flake particles (katsuobushi) are liberally used in almost any sort of dish, and the Japanese people don’t consider an animal product. Be sure to ask if the chef can prepare the dish without katsuobushi.
I’ve been to the tournament venue before, and it’s a good one. It’s fairly easy to get to, a short three minute walk from the subway station. There is a convenience store adjacent to the tournament hall, and it gets stocked fairly regularly. Be sure to grab food with substance when you get the chance, because Magic players attack the place like a Biblical plague of locusts, leaving hardly a scrap of food behind. (The secret tech is to get the fried chicken in the display case by the register.) There are also three restaurants across the street, a Chinese ramen place, a Japanese place, a McDonald’s, and another, larger, better stocked convenience store across the way.
Stuff to Do That’s Close
Parents, chaperones, and those who just want to get away from Magic for a few hours will be delighted to know about various attractions a stone’s throw away from the tournament venue.
Right across the way from the tournament venue is Queen’s Square Yokohama, a bustling shopping center. There are more restaurants there, though they’ll take a bit more time to get to than the above mentioned restaurants. [These restaurants include the obligatory Hard Rock Cafe and a Wendy’s that was serving Pumpkin Soup at this time last year. – Knut]
Landmark Tower is Japan’s tallest building, and allegedly has the world’s fastest elevator. (Ascending at 30 miles per hour is nothing to sneeze at.) There’s an observatory and garden on the 69th floor, though it’s not cheap. (1000 yen per person to get up there.) It’s about 10 minutes’ walk from the venue. There is a map near the subway entrance with decent English signage, so take a note when you see it.
You can get almost as good a view from the top of the Cosmo Clock Ferris Wheel, in Cosmo World, a relatively inexpensive amusement park. You can’t miss it when you leave the subway station to head to the tournament hall.
For those of you who want to improve yourselves, there are numerous museums in the area. There’s the Yokohama Maritime Museum, the Yokohama Museum of Art (with an emphasis on modern art), and the Mitsubishi Minato Mirai Industrial Museum, which is similar to Philadelphia’s Franklin Institute. For those with kids (or who simply want to act like kids), the Industrial Museum may be right for you.
Stuff to Do That’s Far
If you’re bold, adventurous, and want to prove to your friends and family that you’ve sampled the intricacies of Japanese culture, you’ve got a plethora of options.
In Tokyo proper, the best place for tourists to visit is the Asakusa shrine district. Lines of stalls sell souvenirs and shrine tokens. This is a great place for taking pictures of shrines. It’s quick, and touring the whole site should only take an hour or so. The souvenirs here are reasonable. Be careful of pickpockets in this area.
If you’re a geek and want to dive into the world of otaku, you’re not too far from Akihabara, the world capital of geekdom. Anime, manga, underground games, and other geek paraphernalia lurk behind every corner. It’s about a 45 minute train ride from Yokohama, in the center of Tokyo. Watch your pocketbook, it’s easy to drop tens of thousands of yen here without blinking. For an additional touch of amusement, try to eat at a maid cafe. The waitresses at these places have ludicrously feminine and frilly outfits here. Even the frills have frills. The food isn’t all that amazing, but the atmosphere is one of a kind.
Kamakura isn’t Kyoto, but it’s a fairly close analogue. Broad hillside shopping arcades offer traditional dishes and Edo period architecture. It’s under an hour’s express train ride from Yokohama. Unfortunately, early winter isn’t the best season to visit. Keep it in mind next time you head to the Kanto area. If you have lots of time and money, consider a side trip to Kyoto.
Aficionados of Disney can get their Mouse fix at Tokyo Disneyland. It is reputed to be the most expensive Disney theme park, though. You Have Been Warned.
What’s Not Fun
The Japanese have a reputation for being polite, so it’s important to reciprocate. Avoid shouting, and don’t jump lines. The biggest mistake many foreigners make is tipping. Do not tip, service is included in the price. One time at Nagoya’s Hard Rock Cafe, a friend and I maliciously tipped our waitress fifteen percent with willful intent. We were about 100 feet down the street before we heard her shouting and yelling behind us. Dutifully, we attempted to tell her the money was hers for her hard work, but she wouldn’t have any of it and spent three minutes trying to return us our money. Please try to maintain the good reputation of foreigners in Japan. It will make my life easier.
A last reminder. Money will always be an issue when traveling to another country. Japan is problematic in this area. There aren’t many banks that deal in currency exchange, and they often don’t have very good hours. You can always try post offices. Japan’s post offices have a red T-like logo on a white background, and they’re fairly easy to find. Their biggest downside is that they often close at 5 PM. There are several exchange services at Narita, and they are fairly reasonable. Your credit card will not work as an ATM card from bank ATMs, unless you find a Citibank ATM. If you’re planning to use your credit or debit card in this manner, don’t leave the airport without getting your money.
Don’t travel to Japan assuming that your credit card will work. Many credit card companies these days require that you give them notice to use the card overseas. Play it safe and double check if you’ve never been outside the country before.
Japan is a cash economy. Few restaurants accept credit cards. (Also note: Many shops that have a Visa or Mastercard sign out front only accept Visa or MC cards drawn from a Japanese bank. This isn’t the case with restaurants, however. If they do have a credit card sign, you should be safe.)
Be responsible, be aware of your surroundings, and smile when you talk to people. Following these steps, you should have a fine time at Worlds. I’m hoping Japan takes the title this year. (I wouldn’t be put out if the U.S. or France won, however.)
Eli Kaplan
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